SPFWTransN42. On its face, the name chosen to christen the 42nd Edition of the biggest fashion week of Brazil has already announced that the “transformation, transgression and transition” were, somehow, in the DNA of the event. The thought was that finally there would be diversity on the runway — well off the mark, but a first big step out of the square in which we find ourselves yet.
It all started on Monday with a show of representativeness in many colors and shapes: so you can try to set a little of what was the debut of the Ghost Lab, applauded from foot in SPFW. Or the LAB, as affectionately called the creators of the label, the rapper Emic and Evandro Fióti brother, under the baton of creative stylist John pepper. More than for parts with street wear footprint, the parade won spotlight by casting choice. The collection starts in democratic modeling, up to 5 g. And more: for the first time in the history of fashion week in Sao Paulo, a brand placed more of a plus size model on the catwalk. But fat: one of the models parading, Bia Gremion, 19 years, dress up 60 dummy. The singer Ellen Oléria, formerly of the Voice, and the plus-size model Akeen Kimbo completed the most diverse cast – and Rico!–that the Week has seen.
The highlight is the large number of black models on the catwalk, as never seen before. More than one line with strong identity, Emic and your troupe joined the SPFW’s memory as the first brand that actually bothered to represent and give Guy (real!) to your audience. And the result could be another: palms and whistling every new entry on the catwalk, like a sigh of relief and celebration for many, many years without view represented. “Today is the day of the favela invade fashion week”, closed the rapper.
Then it was the turn of Ronaldo Fraga give voice to one of the groups that suffer the most prejudice in the middle of 2016. Once again, the stylist was a forerunner in mixing fashion and political and social discourse to climb a castingsomente with transsexuals, transvestites and androgynous female models-made unprecedented in the São Paulo fashion week. In addition to the initiative of the Ghost Lab, you could say that this edition will be remembered for the flag of representativeness. With Ronaldo, goes further: he lends the protagonism of the parade who has always been a minority. But there on stage at the Theatro São Pedro in São Paulo, 28 women might exercise towards society.
It all started with Ronaldo Fraga himself reading a message in audio about the lack of visibility and the difficulties that the transsexuals and transvestites are every day – Brazil, for example, is one of the countries in which they die. With a soundtrack that included an instrumental version of She, Charles Aznavour, the parade has led to tears many of the guests – and, in the end, even the stylist, who thanked with kisses in the hands of each of the models.
– What matters least is the clothes. We don’t need more clothes and parade, we need other things. The sets need to do this exercise to establish dialogues with other fronts–said the stylist, chat with the press at the end of the show. -Brazilian fashion denies and is unaware of this figure (trans), my collection speaks of love, talk, talk sets as an instrument of liberation, and release of a very serious story. Is fashion by releasing the body, the body as a prison. Can you imagine what is a soul that does not fit in that body, because born unaware that body. She does not recognize that body. And what will release is the first skirt, the first lipstick, the first sandal. That justifies all this universe, this magic. That’s what sets exist – explains.
The diversity on the runway was reflected in the hallways. As ever, the backstage and the surroundings of armed space for the event at Ibirapuera Park were packed with people of all kinds. Fat, chubby, invited girls of afro hair, colored, with dreads, cached, colorful and different, as the streets are and how fashion week should be too. The best-known bloggers (as well as the not so much) and the beautiful people in line were there, but now share space–more than ever–with real people, which consumes fashion and wants to see and be seen, also there on the catwalk. More than that, you want to be represented. If that was the idea of the prefix Trans, we don’t know, but it is a fact that the edited N42 thrilled. Had color, had real people, had life. And that serve as inspiration for the next editions as for our fashion market: representativeness matter, Yes. And it is more urgent than ever.