Manolo Test: Stenströms Custom Made

A skjortmärke that has not appeared much here at Manolo’s Stenströms which after all is one of the biggest players in Sweden. With a long history, founded in 1899, and with extensive knowledge in the production of quality shirts, we think it is time to highlight them. Today’s text will be about Stenströms dimensions sewing service, their so called “Custom Made. It is a service that many of Stenströms reseller offers and as a result of the customer, with the right guidance and support, will be able to get a high quality well fitting shirt.

We met the Manager of NK Outfitter in Stockholm, Zeljko Maksic to try the service.

The whole procedure starts as for so many others that offer a measure sewing where the company is based on an existing master or model they have in their range today. We therefore had to try a Zeljko selected model that he thought would fit. With this shirt as a starting point we said how it should sit and what I as a customer favorite and based on this it was posted and listed dimensions.

The next step was to select a fabric. Stenströms has a range of about 30 fabrics which vary over the season and changed every six months, and about as many of the more classic character that is in the range all the time. There are basic fabrics and more exclusive fabrics in Sea Iceland cotton. This cotton is grown in the Caribbean, where there is a rather harsh climate of a cotton plant with salt winds and little rain. This leads to the fibers will be fantastic and extra long which they can spun thinner. It is a relatively limited range of these fabrics because the availability of the fibers are so small. As a result, the fabric becomes quite expensive but on the other hand, very soft and comfortable to wear.

It should also be added that the base fabrics from Stenströms also keeps a high level.Purchasing fabrics from Albini, Thomas Mason and Grandi Rubinelli but develops and designs their own fabrics together with some other Italian weavers.

When the fabric is selected so it finally choosing collar, buttons, buttons, cuff etc. Here are the choices not extensive but not restrictive. One thing that we appreciate very much was that it was possible to design on a collar that we largely liked but would prefer something less kragsnibbar. This was not a problem to change which was positive.

When all selections are made to be sent the order to Estonia where Stenström’s own factory is located. This creates patterns, cut the parts out and be pattern matched and sewn in the factory on machine like Stenströms regular shirts. The whole process takes about 3-4 weeks. During busy periods, you may find that they may add a week to.

Each shirt is manufactured by 23 different parts and have about 60 different work phases.During production, there are 5 critical controls to ensure quality. In the manufacture of a shirt, as much as 150 m wire. The buttons used are usually handmade and of mother of Pearl.

We posed the question directly to Stenströms on how they look at a possible future production in Sweden? That salaries would be an obstacle feels pretty natural but they also mean that unfortunately, much of the expertise in cutting and sewing reduced why it can be difficult to find the right people for this today.

The end result of the shirt we sewed up were very good and the actual dimensions and the fit was right. We’ve said it before and will say it again, when it comes to measure sewing is the end result depends on how the skilled person that helps. In our case was Zeljko on NK very knowledgeable and have måttat many shirts in the past which is an important part of the concept of Custom Made.

A selection of those that offer this service from Stenströms is: Stenströms Mr and Damekipering in Helsingborg, Olséns in Malmö, Lund & Lund, Stockholm, Divanti in Gislaved, La Chemise in Stockholm, Jönköping and Värnamo Friberg, NK in Gothenburg, Brixx in Gävle and NK Outfitter in Stockholm.