White Shirts, By Cavalier Bleu

I History And Presentation Of The Cavalier Bleu Brand

I had already spotted it at the end of 2012 when I was at Exception: the brand then offered women’s jackets, with well-fitting cuts and with an enormous effort on the materials (which is extremely rare in the ready to wear for wife). 
I remember at the time I regretted that the line was only feminine. A year later, it is corrected and I find Cavalier Bleu with a line of ready to wear for man including jackets, shirts, pants, sweats and accessories.

What attracted me to its products is the richness and quality of the materials used (the fabrics come from Tuscany and Scotland), as well as the really intelligent ways found to be off the beaten track.

Samy, the founder of the brand, is anchored in this new state of mind, close to the values ​​of NeverVulgaire: to design clothes made to last, with a true quality and who do not blindly seek to follow trends to the detriment of the rest. Besides the quality materials, the manufacture is demanding and is carried out in France, in Paris.
After a rigorous selection, Cavalier Bleu has retained two workshops that provide prestigious French brands. These workshops have remained family-friendly and their employees all have 30 to 40 years of experience in the trade.

We will see this through their formal white shirt, which is particularly representative of the efforts provided.
I was not able to make outfits, but I will publish to catch up with some style advice on white shirts (which are not so complicated to wear).

Ii White Shirt Blue Cavalier

As I explained in the presentation of the brand, Cavalier Bleu favors quality to the pure and hard tendency. This is why we find in our collections permanent and low-cost products: the white shirt is part of it.
As for the general rendering: it is well cut and very adapted to small sizes.

Let’s study each of its aspects to explain well what makes it so different from the shirts in ready to wear classic.

1 Fabric: Double-Plied Cotton Poplin, With 140/2 Titration

A Double Twisted, Is That What It Is?

The double twist does not refer to weaving but to the quality of the cotton yarn used.Only the longest fibers can be used for this technique: two wires are actually assembled together in a twist. There are even triple-folks.

These fabrics are generally softer and resistant and give a richer texture and worked to the fabric. The only defect: the shirt is thicker and less suitable for hot climates, and it is also more difficult to iron.

B Explanation Of The Concept Of Titration

On a shirt, titling refers to the number of different threads present in a book. The more threads there are, the finer the threads and the better.
For example a titration of 100 means that there are more than 110 threads ?? In a pound of cloth.
We reach a threshold of quality particularly perceptible precisely from a titration of 140: just as for the costumes, it is not particularly useful to go further. Beyond that, you will have a shirt too expensive and a fabric too thin, so too fragile and with a short life.The result is visually beautiful with a very soft fabric and almost translucent material, but it really is a matter of amateurs.

On the other hand, if you go below 60, you will have a much too thick and coarse material, which will only suit more casual shirts. They will be much more robust: it is good for shirts in oxford or chambray.

The name 140/2 means that we have a titration of 140 and double twisted, that is to say two wires surrounded together.

In short, what you have to remember is that for a formal shirt, it’s good from 100. The concept is comparable to the name “super 100’s/120/140 etc” for the wool of a suit .

C The Notion Of Armor In Shirts: The Different Ways Of Weaving Your Shirt

Armor refers to the manner in which a shirt is woven, and more precisely the way in which the warp and weft threads intersect.
Three main weaves are distinguished: twill and twill whose lines are oblique or diagonal.
The plain weave that produces the softest fabrics like poplin cotton.
Finally, this is more exceptional (and especially for formal shirts), the satin weaves are united with a shiny appearance. The result is more fragile and is used mainly for silk.

The overwhelming majority of formal shirts use a cotton poplin, according to agooddir.

2 Materials: Buttons And Whales

1 Buttons: Genuine Mother Of Pearl Of Sudan And Button Of Sleeves In Satin Gun

Roughly, we have either plastic or mother-of-pearl. But we can have mother-of-pearl rather low-end, rendering in the end close to plastic. The name Mother of Speech is very vague and tends to be used for just about all types of mother-of-pearl. I personally prefer more original mother-of-pearl shells, such as mother-of-pearl on Sudan, where true natural bluish traces are still perceptible when the button is turned over.
This gives a true signature and true authenticity to shirts if not too tasteless.

I’m not a fan of cufflinks: it’s not practical, it takes time and a lack of taste can quickly happen. A shirt with wrist musketeers also condemns your style to formal, or else to casual really wise.
Here, Cavalier Bleu has chosen simple wrists but with a metal button to the satin finish canon, a treatment that gives a chrome appearance rather original while retaining a construction very passe-partout.

2 Metal Collar Whales

In a shirt, collar whales are sticks that are placed inside the spikes of a shirt, to keep them straight and thus to keep the collar rigid.
Most of the classic ready-to-wear shirts have whales built into the collar, non-removable and usually plastic. They eventually curl up as the washings progress. And we will inevitably have a collar that deforms and that no longer holds up. It does not matter for a casual shirt but it is more for a formal shirt.

As you can imagine, the removable metal whales guarantee a much better fit of the collar, and for a long time. If you do not forget to remove them before going to the machine.
Also be careful not to reinsert them before ironing during which the whales would cause false creases.

3 Finishes: The Details To Recognize A Quality Shirt, And Also Some Signs Of Originality Well Thought Out

Bottom Of Rounded Shirt And Swallow

The rounded shirt bottom is not a sign of quality in itself. But by choosing the right length you can make use of both formal (shirt tucked in the pants) and casual (shirt out).

The swallow is located on its side at the bottom of the shirt and connects the front and rear parts. It simply reinforces this part which is otherwise slightly more likely to tear.

English Seam 7 Points/Cm

The English seams are easily recognizable: there is only one row of seams, whereas the classic ready-to-wear is often double.
This characteristic seam of superior quality is technically accompanied by the sacro saint 7 points to the centimeter. The density of dots to the centimeter is of interest and is not just a purist detail: the higher it is and the stronger the seam, while maintaining a finer sewing thread and therefore a less coarse finish.

Hand-Held Interlacing

The interlining is the layer of fabric between the top and bottom of the collar. On the shirts of the classic ready-to-wear, it is usually thermocollated. A traditional hand-held interlining is a sign of quality that guarantees a longer life.
It is a difference roughly comparable to that between a thermocollate jacket and a covered jacket.

Small, Seamless Collar

The small pass particularly seduced me. If it is not so small, it rarely finds such proportions in the ready to wear.
Another advantage: the brand uses a rare process that completely masks the seams.Holding the shirt in my hand for the first time, I thought it was square edges.
This result uses a particular machine, present only in the most high-end workshops.No luck on the other hand, Samy forgot the name and I could not find him.

For the most curious, here is the patent for this collar shirt without seams , which also describes the manufacturing technique.

Blue Satin Piping At The Right Wrist

As you know, most quality brands no longer write their name in huge on their products. But they all have their signature, more or less discreet and more or less useful. That of Cavalier Bleu is the satin band with the slightly electric blue: it is present on the jackets with the chest pocket and on the shirts on the right wrist. Just like the metal button with satin finish, this brings real added value and originality to the traditionally boring formal white shirt.