The 40-Year Career of Mayelj Piccoli, The Designer of Dreams

Words of the bride. The heart beats faster when the Rua Padre Chagas is the Bear Brook, and the level of the sidewalk, look up and find the lonely white dress in the window. Up the two flights of stairs toward the House which houses the brand has something symbolic. As if it were a pleasant climb to a dream: the choice of the most important piece of the most important day of your life.

The accelerated time is the heart of Martha Gehling, the Attorney for 29 years proposed in the last Valentine’s day. Smiling and eager, she waits beside the mother, Grace, and sister, Fernanda, on a pink sofa in the anteroom of House. Minutes later, plain black dress, feathered hair look smart, behind a stylish frame, Mayelj Piccoli appears in person.

Made a couple at the altar, Mayelj is the Union of two distinct personalities, but they complement each other and they live happily ever after in the same person. The first facet is the consecrated and antenadíssima designer of wedding dresses. The one in 70 years of life – completed on day 10 – and more than four decades of career, put on over 5000 brides in three workshops: Porto Alegre, São Paulo and, since last year, Vienna, Austria.

The second Mayelj is a gentle, almost maternal, seamstress of Gravataí. The kind that embraces the guests, invites you to the bride’s family to settle in the cushioned chairs, offers a café and asks what the bride have in mind to wear to the big night.

The answer, however, is the least of it. While the bride chatterbox, talks about their preferences, show reviews and references on mobile screen, Mayelj pay more attention in vocabulary, style of dress, on assertiveness or reluctance. In a few minutes, unspools mentally the perfect dress for the client’s personality, one that neither the bride know you want to.

Before talking about your preferences, the bride Martha reveals himself to be a fan of Mayelj since adolescence, when the store still offered dresses for rent. One of them she used to debut in 2001. Mayelj remember without great difficulty. CITES not only the color and the model chosen by the then teenager, but the debutante’s mother, who also rent the dress in the store. The memory makes the two jaw dropped.

About the rent dresses, fit a parenthesis. Four years ago, the brand decided to abandon the business, although he has never ceased to be economically interesting. The decision, explains the designer, was to prevent a recurring scene:

-the day after the wedding, brides came here to deliver the dress to tears, as if they were saying goodbye. Most regretted not having placed the purchase the dress in the budget. Some arrived ready to buy the piece of rent at all costs (laughs). In addition, we started renting out wedding dresses when it was only made in the United States, today a number of shops in the city offer the service. It is no longer news.

Mayelj cites the recent case of a client of the serra gaúcha, businessman Clacir Rasador, that for 17 years the woman, Susana, cry of repentance for not having purchased the Mayelj Piccoli chosen for your wedding. For the 50 years anniversary of the beloved, the surprise of the husband went looking for the designer and challenge you to make an identical reproduction of the play, based on the pictures of the time. The scene of her husband faced with the reborn woman’s dress and exposed in the shop dummy was marked as one of the most exciting in the history of the Studio.

The rent also would prevent a big cheap to draw a dress, as noticed Klee: Customize, even if in a small detail, each piece. In November, the writer married to mining lawyer Beatriz Nogueira Raj Sarkar. In his words, she wore a Mayelj Piccoli “stunning with the bust set with stones, with the veil deposed by dragging the long tail of waves. A mermaid singing in silence “:

-the coolest Mayelj’s work is that it tells a story in every dress. In my case, of course, of the poet and your Muse. I bet she got a Mojo in disguise on the frame of the glasses – plays Carpi Nejar, write a Chronicle in homage to the designer, delighted with your ability to “shape the dress perfectly in body and bride’s dream”.

5000 dresses and a great story

In the case of the poet, the finishing touch of Mayelj surprised own bride. Beatrice went to church without realize that your veil contained a verse of the future husband embroidered in gold letters: “there’s only one way to love you: for life”. This detail so that every bride feel special too is highlighted by journalist Gabrieli Chanas. Between 2008 and 2014, Gabi signed the blog, who spoke about the adventures and misadventures of a party.

-I promised the single that would lead readers the names of each one of them in the dress. Problem is that this has resulted in a 20-metre Ribbon. I had no idea of how to carry it. One day, after commenting on the story in one of the proofs of dress, Mayelj told me: “Turn the lining.” She had done a little pocket to tape.

The model used by Gabi, with more than 20 layers of tulle and a party with a black silk bow at the waist, became a champion of popularity of the designer. The original dress was auctioned off, and the amount donated to the breast Institute of the RS.

-the Mayelj would have talent and fame enough to be one of those designers who even appears. To launch a collection once a year, sell and bye. But her footprint is just make the choice of the particular and special dress. Are little things. Since the first test, for example, she takes your hair and do a bun. For the first impression of the dress already be with wedding guy-Gabi account.

This is time that Martha passes now. She and Mayelj are gathered into the shop in search of some models ready that the designer uses as reference. Outside you can hear only the whispering. Meanwhile, the mother and sister are waiting in the room in which will attend the first test. In addition to the sofa for family members, there’s a mirror that covers the entire wall and a small pedestal. In the opposite corner, protected by glass, is a simple dress, with embroidered flowers that vaguely resemble the boho style of the years 1970. This is the first wedding dress made by Mayelj.

-was a teacher my in Gravataí. Makes 45 years. She told me: “Hey, you don’t make party dress for you and for your sisters? Then, you will make my marriage. ” Each day the more I’m convinced that all we learned to sew because I had no other way to learn that it wasn’t doing-wanders Mayelj.

To give the wavy effect in the dress, that she had no idea how to do, for example, she helped a small wire stitched on the bar and cast later. Fact is that the next week was already second order of wedding dress, and never stopped.

Sew was a fate almost inescapable between the women in the family: of the four sisters, the four became tailors, as well as his mother and grandmother. In 1972, she remembers going to Porto Alegre with his mother to buy gifts, each one in a store.

-the next day, there were two delivery trucks in front of our House, one of the Renner and one of Mesbla. We bought the same thing for one another. Guess what? A sewing machine.

Of the four sisters, three were married, and the three had the dresses made in family. The Mayelj, note the boldness, was purple. Today, the relic exists only in photo, because the three daughters of designer girls played with the play to consume it. Already the first dress of Mayelj returned to the author in a gesture of gratitude: when Mayelj delivered the prom dress your daughter first bride, got back to your first creation as a gift.

As there was still no training in fashion, Mayelj crossed the arts and architecture, University course you paid in Caxias do Sul selling crochet. The great leap of his career would come in 1993, when she and her sister circulated by Porto Alegre to go to the doctor and encountered a trade room for rent in Independence Avenue between Santo Antonio and the General John Telles. Still in Office, asked for the phone and call the real estate office.

Read also: The 5 styles of wedding dresses that more bombam today

In addition to being called crazy by family, Mayelj had to sell the car – a Santana Quantum-and had to travel daily from Gravataí to Porto Alegre on a bus carrying the gowns for rent, new at the time. The rapid growth in the Capital Mayelj assigns to what today is a dear friend, the etiquette expert Celia Ribeiro:

-I heard she performed lectures. I hit a fee, bought 30 copies of the book and invited guests. Appeared, recall, 42 women. The chat was to last 40 minutes, but Celia out of there after 2 hours and not charged me nothing.

The following week, on the tip of the journalist, Zero hour held a report at the store about the novelty of rent dresses. The impact was immediate, recalls Mayelj:

-I’m guessing that in 10 years shortened reporting our growth forecast.

Celia says thanks, but stresses:

-might have helped give visibility, but she grew up fast by the enormous talent that has. It became clear to me when we promote an exhibition about weddings in Julio de Castilhos Museum, and Mayelj designed a beautiful black dress, as was tradition (of immigrants of Pomeranian descent) in the southern part of the State.

At Independence, also invented the Mayelj afternoon of the bride, to beauty preparations before the party. The initiative came from renowned photographers as Everton Rosa, partner of future contracts in Europe. In 2013, Mayelj Piccoli photographed your collection in Vienna by the designer headpieces Niely what Hoestsch aroused the curiosity of brides across the Atlantic. After three years in view of specific orders abroad, the Austrian capital went on to host the first brand store abroad. The 2017 collection was photographed in Portugal and will be released in February.

For the Bear Creek Mayelj migrated in 1997, anticipating the changing profile of the neighborhood, in the vicinity of Padre Chagas, of residential nook for a Oscar Freire. Is there now Martha chooses your dress while his mother, Grace, conversation with Donna. Mind that your marriage was one that did not pass hit by the influence of Princess Diana’s wedding in 1981. The fashion for brides, recalls Mayelj, it took almost a decade to get rid of bufantes sleeves and huge tails. The years 1920 onwards, there have always been elements of return to past dresses. The exception is the Decade of 1980: “This, Lady Di ruined forever.”

Grace gives after all until you lose the line. Martha – with a makeshift bun by Mayelj-stunning, and appears the mother falls into tears, overcome with emotion. In front of the mirror, the bride stirs.

-We know what they like when they do little dances. And it’s amazing how almost always end up choosing the first dress that her mother asks to prove – tells the Mayelj youngest daughter, Julia.

The Designer gives tips about choosing the dress, bouquet, shoes and more! Check out the video:

Two workshops for four women

The next generation of the brand Mayelj Piccoli lives up to previous. The eldest daughter, Gabriela, is graduated in Visual Arts and takes care of the São Paulo store opened nine years ago in Oscar Freire. The middle child, Camila, even tried his luck in radiology, but also ended up in sets. The youngest, Julia, is formed in fashion, has a post-graduate degree in Portugal and a teacher at Feevale, Novo Hamburgo. The only dispensing needles and thread is the son, Thiago.

In Sao Paulo, says Gabriela, the brand works almost opposite. While the porto-alegrenses opt for personalized treatment and, occasionally, dare in the models, the clientèle paulista enters the store pointing out the dress in Instagram brand.

-and are so traditional models that I almost get mad. I can’t freak out a little bit – plays.

Both assertiveness as the preference for more conventional models, Gabriela attributed to many of the brides were from other regions of the country-North and Midwest, mainly-in trip to Sao Paulo for wedding shopping. Another curiosity is that the store in Sao Paulo has become a favorite of brides healthcare: according to Gabriela, more than 85% of the clients are doctors or dentists. The reason, speculate, is the fact that they are women’s professions, practices with little time and good purchasing power. Plus, of course, are always an eye on dress of friends and professional colleagues.

Meanwhile, in Porto Alegre, Martha makes your choices. Don’t blow the surprise here revealing the model, but the bride ended up opting for a dress based on the first one proved. The skirt and embroidery, however, came from the two dresses proven following. So begins one of the most fun parts, when Mayelj sits at the table, pulls out a sheet of paper A3 and freehand draw a sketch of the model envisioned by Martha. Under signature, writes the date:

-My god, in four days I do 70 years!

-With all that talent, I don’t even mind-says the mother of the bride.

Martha married on 28 October. Is this next November, the true month of brides. When Mayelj exceeds the mark of 50 dresses delivered per month. A job for the team of 12 designers and seamstresses, including Mayelj and her daughter Camilla

The final part is the budget. Mayelj scribble two options, the second 20% more expensive than the first, based on different raw materials to the model chosen. Turn the role and show the customers, drooping over him like he looked to a baby in the cradle, before reaching a verdict. After a quick head movement between mothers and daughters, the budget is approved. The account is collected by Mayelj, folded, put in an envelope and delivered to customers. The financial sector will be in touch with the family to settle the terms of payment.

The value reaches the home of the five digits, but not inflated as much as could, says Mayelj. She confidenciaria me later:

-The satisfaction of them in the templates, I’m sure, if I charged 30% more for that dress, they would buy the same. But it would be a dishonesty my adjust the price to the satisfaction of the client. And do more affordable dresses, too, if the wish of the bride is a simpler model. It is a pity that some girls stop doing me why assume that it’s expensive and then end up disappointed with other options on the market. But patience.

Finally, mother and daughters say goodbye. The Mayelj itself accompanies to the door. Quietly walk up to the window observes the trio down the stairs for a few seconds.

-Look there. Left hugging – says the designer.

Mission accomplished. Another dream is about to be sewn.

Maternal affection, by Patrícia Pontalti

I met Mayelj in one of those fixes that we put when working in a magazine and invents contests to yourself. Was there by 2000. Was fashion editor of Donna and had created an editorial of brides for shooting a period somewhat claustrophobic. Needed to leave the conventional dresses that seemed to exist only in my imagination, since I couldn’t find anything that actually translate my wish for the new season. Anxious that I am, I was sleep-deprived, until someone pointed out Mayelj. Question: But she’s not too classic. And the person responded: it is you.

I booked 1 hour on the disputed Mayelj agenda and have been received with affection: I won coffee, tea, cookies and a wonderful chat sets and better life. Mayelj showed the first dress I made, a beautiful and romantic model, proudly displayed in a showcase, but it might already be a part of such editorial. I proposed this to her-and she just laughed.

In an unhurried conversation that anything referred to this professional stylist played rush, she was working on me without myself realizing it. I didn’t even have to talk about what I wanted to photograph. After 1 hour of a tête-a-tête, I walked into a room lined with ceiling-to-floor dresses. There, in your habitat, Mayelj moved skillfully in araras, rescuing pieces here and there, talking to herself while riding on and took apart new dresses: “this skirt with this top, this I get this part right here put in this volume I shot”. Not 10 minutes and voila: there were the dresses in my mind, fresh, different, built with unique precision. And I even had explained the proposal.

Why did I tell all this? Now: summarizes the essence of Mayelj, owner of a sensitivity that interprets dreams, which transforms the wishes in the most beautiful dress has anyone used. And it doesn’t matter if you’re a romantic, minimalist, sensual or classic: Mayelj has a gift, increasingly rare in e-commerce times, to see beyond the silhouette of euphoria, anxiety. Although very talented new names have appeared on the market, the Mayelj is synonymous with excellence and a caring that will only feel who sit with this woman and hear some of your history and your wisdom – and make a dress with her, as I’ve done.

Have a wedding dress Mayelj Piccoli, no matter if you’re a swinger or traditional, is much more than wearing a suit, is wear the feel to be the most important woman in the universe at that time. And isn’t that what we all want? Because that’s what Mayelj do for us – and still have coffee and muffin.