By MÁRcio Gonçalves, Globe
The pros scheduled to interpret characters from that time know that the task requires letting go of vanity. Mostly the actresses. In ‘ freedom ‘, for example, women were instructed to stop shaving. All to refer to the reality of the people who lived in the early 19th century.
— It is important to reproduce what was going on at that time. We ask for everyone to leave the hair from under the arm and groin. For those who did laser epilation, put a wig in place — delivery Lucila Robirosa, responsible for the characterization of the novel.
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But that’s not the only tactic employed to make an impact in the scenes. Lucila also uses some special effects. The makeup, that usually serves to beautify the cast in contemporary stories, gains importance for doing just the opposite. On his face, almost nothing is used. But a mixture of glycerine to give excessive brightness and thus reproduce the sweat. And another that is rubbed on the actors to leave them dirty. At that time, the baths were not so frequent.
The most impressive, however, is the speed with which Lucila creates scars and fictitious queloids marking the bodies of slaves from the novel. The application is done almost as a stamp, from ready-made templates. And the process can be accomplished in less than five minutes, as Lucila proves when you open the bag and quickly apply the work in the forearm of a person. As the color of each brand depends on skin tone, eye shadows help to let them lighter or darker.
— Of course, depending on the situation, we need to give it a little more. It’s just that we’re already trained and, as hard as it is, we can take care of get everybody relatively quickly — ensures the makeup artist. That’s because, in some sequences, in addition to the main cast, more than 150 extras to be prepared.
And the scars are not limited to slaves. Dionysia, played by Maitê Proença, suffered intense abuse husband and have different brands scattered around the body.
Dirt also does not appear only on the skin. Teeth and nails stand out, including the actors and actresses most beautiful production.
— Even the Joaquina, Andreia Horta, and the nobles need to appear so. Only blacks who don’t, because slaves were chosen by white teeth — explains Lucila, who wears dark lipstick to make the nails of names like Matthew Solano and Bruno Ferrari with grimy appearance.
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The harsh environment and the precarious conditions in which the Brazil in 1808 created extra work for the team led by costume designer Paula Castro. The clothes and accessories of the season used to be repeated several times, and so worn. So, for ‘ freedom ‘, thousands of fabrics have been bought, washed, modeled, then aged and dirty with a special mixture developed by the team. Often, the pieces are even cut to look like ripped by heavy use.
The more contact with Earth and manual services, the greater the need to wear the clothes. If the nobles used about six to eight pieces on a daily basis, between hats, coats, waistcoats, corsets, shirts, gloves, laces, trousers, long skirts, petticoats and boots, blacks used two or three at the most, such as dresses, skirts, blouses and turbans.
Realism won creative freedom with noble women and cabaret from Virginia, played by actress Lilia Cabral. Joaquina contemporary references with mixture already the period of the novel: the embroideries are current, with types of manga and fabrics made in the style of the time. Having been established in Portugal and follow the Court, Jacobson brings to Brazil until then women costumes did not know. If, for example, parts with high waist.
Virginia already abuse of corseletes, stockings, dresses and long robes to enhance your beauty. White, played by Nathalia Dill, has dressed in well formats with the low-rise, of one color and embroidery, tone on tone. The biggest problem for the actresses, however, is the excess tissue and high temperatures that have been recorded in Rio de Janeiro, where the plot is written.
— I came to comment that the costume was too hot to use as well, under strong sunlight and heat. But Paula (costume designer) said ‘ at that time the climate was milder and slightly cold in Brazil ‘, to try to help us — play Advincula Horta.