Different Cuts of Skirts

I have at the time of writing almost been at Koldinghus Castle and hold workshop to their summer market d. 5/6, 2016, and in this context, I have created a share research on making pattern for sol skirt. It was the theme of the workshop, where the participants had made patterns for sol skirt after own goals. And I wanted to make sure that the techniques, I gave the money to the participants, now also was the most appropriate.

My research offered a few surprises about sol skirts. Inter alia, I found in 6 different books 6 different formulas to figure the waist in sol skirt out. It makes no sense, as there was one who wrote on Facebook, so is it the damn just the radius of a circle, you need to use, and it can, therefore, not count on 6 different ways.

However, an additional layer that come into the equation when it is sol skirt that is talking about, because there is a difference between whether you will do 1/4, 1/2 sol, sol 3/sol or 1/4 1 sol. It must be taken into account in the formula, and it will be there in the formula I use to make symønster to sol skirt. You get all the formulas for all 4 editions of Sun skirt a little further down.

The skirt on this image are created as 1/4 sol skirt. It is the smallest of the 4 editions of Sun skirt, but it still has the nice case that just characterises sol skirts. (Pattern to the top, you say? It will be a guide to next week).

Bill is (unfortunately) not the only place you can go wrong when you make a symønster to sol skirt. Therefore you also get 3 shortcuts, so you do not have to commit some of the classic mistakes in your sol skirt.

Avoid classic error in your sol skirt

I dare well admit I dummer me when I make patterns and sew. I make mistakes, Treasurer projects that fail and buy extra fabric, because pruning wrong.

And it is really fine, because it’s our mistakes that make us wiser and better. It is the failed experiments, we learn from, even if it is a little annoying, just when you find out that the plans and theories closely had conceived, yet does not work in practice.

Fortunately, you don’t learn everything through our own mistakes. Sometimes you can take a shortcut, and learn from others ‘ mistakes. 2 of the shortcuts, I show you here, I have learned from others. And I have even found. In fact, during the workshop on Koldinghus.

Shortcuts guide you safely around some classic errors associated with pattern construction. The first classic error happens already, when you should take your goals to your Sun skirt.

You must use 2 targets to make a symønster to sol skirt:

* Taljevidden, where the skirt must sit.

* The length of the skirt from the waist.

Waist circumference should be skirt waistlines, and therefore not necessarily your natural waist.

Usually, when you’re talking about a skirt sits at the waist, thinking that it sits around the navel. A little depending on where your belly button is placed, that is. And the navel is not at all as crazy as a starting point for a sol skirt, even though the body’s natural waist actually sits higher. With skirt waist located around belly button, you can sew a fixed waistband at the waist, and have a skirt that will be sitting where it will be all day.

Get you placed your sol skirt too low, it will come to revolve around the body, if you exit with a waistband around the waist. You can instead choose to exit with a coating, and so you will be able to have your Sun skirt to sit lower. If you choose it, you must remember to lock the taljesømmen with formvlies, and possibly. an extra Ribbonso that it does not stretch out of shape in use.

The length of the skirt you will need to measure from the skirt waist. So, you have chosen to your skirt should sit at your belly button, you must measure the length from the waist down. You must not take account of linn no, when you measure nederdels length.

Shortcut to solnederdel No. 1

And here comes the want for a truly classic mistakes that sat completely stuck in me, when I worked in the fashion industry. That I had as a design Manager, who committed this error more than once.

When you measure the length at anything, you must have on your body, you need to put you in front of a mirror. Right up and down. And there you are standing! You take a tape measure, and stops in front of you, so 1 century turns down towards the floor. The skirts keep the measuring tape next to the point where the skirt waist must be – Let’s say navel – and keep an eye on the end of the measuring tape, which you can move up and down, it has the right length. Then you can read the length of the tape measure at the waist, and you know now exactly how long your skirt should be.

My old boss had a different method. She kept the 1 century on the measuring tape where fx. the waist of a skirt should be, bent forward and took the length of the skirt, and reading on the tape there. The result was approximately 10 cm for short skirts and dresses, when she straightened up again. Or, it would have been if we had not seen how she measured constructors, and edited it in time. You can try both methods, if you are in doubt about the difference �

Shortcut to solnederdel No. 2

When you have goals for your solar skirt, to draw your pattern. Can you use this guide. The guide is created to draw a skirt in full sun, but the procedure is the same – it is just the formula to find the radius of the skirt, which is different.

The design starts with an angle of pattern paper. And here we come already to the shortcut no. 2, which is the one I found at Koldinghus Castle.

It is normal to use the edge of the pattern paper as the one line in the angle, because the course is perfectly straight, and you won’t have to cut the edge off afterwards. And most will also put this line in the pattern to fold, and leave it in the middle of the skirt, and so is the method the fin enough

BUT …

It gives a much nicer fall in the skirt, if the sheep side seams. So can the front piece and the back panel be identical, and they can be cut on the bias. It gives a more uniform decrease in substance, which is very beautiful.

And so we come to the shortcut.